New innovations are launching in the skincare industry faster than a beauty influencer can apply make-up to a mango. Therefore, if you’re not keeping up with the latest trends, you might miss an opportunity to discover a golden ingredient for your skin.
Despite the huge variety of skincare on the market, nine out of 10 British women are reported to be unhappy with their skin, with dryness, dullness and dark eye circles being the most common skin complaints. Unlike skin diseases such as rosacea, which have no cure, these conditions are easy to remedy with the right skincare. In fact, the latest skincare ingredients to hit the market this year are just the ticket for achieving a hydrated, youthful glow!
If you are struggling to find the perfect product to achieve your dream skin, browse our list of trending skincare ingredients below to find the right one for you.
Bakuchiol
Best for anti-ageing
For those looking for vegan anti-ageing skincare, this is the ingredient for you. Bakuchiol is a plant-based ingredient derived from the leaves and seeds of Psoralea corylifolia (also known as ‘babchi’), which is a plant that is often used in Indian and Chinese medicine.
Bakuchiol has potent antioxidant properties, which means that it can help fight off free radicals. Free radicals are reactive molecules formed in the body as a result of exposure to environmental stressors like air pollution, cigarette smoke, UV rays and more. These molecules cause signs of ageing, such as fine lines and loss of firmness in the skin – so using a skincare product that features antioxidants is crucial if you want to maintain a youthful glow!
Though it is rare, some people may be allergic to the oils found in babchi. In these cases, the oils can cause blistered skin which may be sensitive to light. Although the bakuchiol extracted from babchi will be refined when used in skincare products, it is important to be cautious and patch test the formula on a small area of skin before using it on your face.
Pre and probiotics
Best for fighting inflammation
We’re encouraged to eat pre and probiotics foods for our gut health – but can our skin receive the same benefits from these ingredients too?
Pre and probiotic skincare is based on the concept that the many systems within the body are linked. So, for example, when you are having gut problems, you may also find that you suffer from acne, oiliness, dry skin, or other issues with your dermis. This is because your gut contains a ‘microbiome’ – an environment where billions of bacteria work to keep you healthy – and if this microbiome becomes imbalanced, it can inhibit other processes within your body, such as the ones that keep your skin healthy. After all, your body’s main goal is to keep you alive, and if that means getting a breakout when you’re due to take your passport photo, so be it!
There are, however, things that you can do to help maintain the balance in your microbiome, and this is where pre and probiotic skincare comes in. Prebiotics are the foods eaten by the bacteria in your gut, while probiotics are live bacteria that are the same as or similar to bacteria found in your gut. When we use pre and probiotics, we can help to maintain or restore balance to the microbiome, which in turn helps to maintain normal bodily processes.
When it comes to skincare, pre and probiotics can be found in topical and oral supplement forms; when taken orally or applied, these skincare products are said to help fight inflammation, which reduces instances of acne, rosacea, dermatitis, eczema and psoriasis.
It’s important to note that research around pre and probiotics in skincare is still limited, and there is debate over whether topical products are truly effective in balancing your microbiome, so approach these products with scepticism.
Plant based ceramides
Best for boosting hydration
Those who struggle with dry skin may look to phytoceramides to help hydrate their dermis – and keep it hydrated. Phytoceramides are ceramides that are derived from plants, and ceramides are lipids (fat molecules) which contribute to strengthening cell membranes, and play a role in cellular stress response and apoptosis (cell death, which helps get rid of precancerous cells and other cells that we don’t need).
Ceramides occur naturally in the epidermis (the outermost layer of the skin). They help to strengthen our skin barrier, which helps with moisture retention and protects your skin from environmental stressors. If you have dry skin, it may be that you suffer from ceramide depletion, which can occur due to age, changes in weather, medication, diet and many other factors.
Moisturisers that are formulated with ceramides can restore ceramide levels in the skin, allowing your dermis to retain moisture, leaving it smooth and hydrated. Why plant-based? Phytoceramides are likely more popular than synthetic or animal-derived ceramide due to a rise in popularity for vegan and plant-based skincare.
Niacinamide
Best for improving texture
Niacinamide is also known as vitamin B3, or nicotinamide. It is found in many animal products, such as meat, fish and eggs, but can also be found in nuts, mushrooms, grains and some vegetables such as kale.
This skincare ingredient has a multitude of benefits, including:
- Reducing pore size
- Evening out pigmentation
- Contributing to a stronger skin barrier, which helps boost hydration and immunity
- Reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
Many products containing niacinamide come in the form of serums, which should be applied after cleansing your skin and before your moisturiser. Concentrations can vary, but most formulas contain 5% or less. Those with sensitive skin may benefit from a lower concentration of this ingredient – around 2%.
Bioidentical hormones
Best for hormonal skin concerns
Whether we like it or not, our hormones have an impact on our skin. This is why teenagers often experience acne, or why you might notice changes in your skin after pregnancy or menopause. There are a variety of hormonal conditions that can cause skin conditions, including polycystic ovary syndrome, endometriosis and hyperthyroidism. This is because, when our hormones are out of whack, this hinders the body from carrying out normal processes, such as maintaining skin health.
Bioidentical skincare aims to combat the effects of hormonal imbalance by utilising bioidentical hormones – hormones that are identical to the ones found in our bodies – in a targeted, topical formula.
If you have hormonal skin issues, it is best to seek the advice of a professional who will be able to prescribe a formula that is tailored to your needs and skin type. Clinics such as the Marion Gluck Clinic are experts in hormone therapy, and can create bespoke products that suit each individual patient, with staggering results.
Which skincare ingredient is right for me?
Finding the right skincare routine for you requires time and patience. You may try dozens of formulas before you find the right one, and you shouldn’t give up just because you’ve tried something that doesn’t work for your skin. Where you can, ask for product samples from beauty counters and read reviews, or ask friends and family about what works for them.
You may also wish to address your skin with lifestyle and dietary changes; in this case, consult a medical professional to do this in a way that is appropriate for your health.
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